Artificial grass looks finished and plays well only when what lies beneath it is done right. The base, the infill, the drainage, and the seams are the difference between turf that stays flat and firm for years and turf that settles, holds water, smells, or separates at the seams. This guide walks a Greenville homeowner through each layer: what infill does, how much you need, what goes under the turf, how to prepare the dense red clay that dominates our yards, and how drainage actually works on a surface that looks waterproof but is not.
Whether you are installing turf in a backyard, a dog run, around a pool, or on a patio, the same principles apply. A quality installation starts with honest measurement, a written specification that names every material and its amount, and the discipline to do the base work even when no one will see it. This guide is for homeowners who want to understand what to ask for and what to inspect, so that when you call a turf installer in Greenville and the surrounding areas, you know whether they are taking shortcuts or building something that will last.
Turf Infill Options: Silica, Coated Sand, Zeolite and Envirofill
Infill is the granular material spread across the turf after it is laid. It serves multiple purposes: it props the synthetic fibres upright so they look and feel natural, it protects the turf backing from ultraviolet light, it adds weight so the turf does not shift in wind or under foot traffic, and it plays a role in drainage. Different infill types suit different uses, and understanding the options helps you choose the right product for your yard.
Silica sand is the most common and affordable infill. It is angular, dense, and does the job of ballast and UV protection well. It drains readily and works for most residential yards. Coated sand is silica sand that has been rounded and often tinted to match the turf colour or to reduce glare and heat absorption. The rounded particles are gentler on the fibres, less likely to compact over time, and often preferred for high-traffic areas and pet yards where comfort and durability matter. Zeolite is a porous mineral that absorbs and neutralizes odors, making it valuable in pet turf and dog run installations. It is often blended with sand rather than used alone. Antimicrobial and cooling coated infills, sold under names such as Envirofill, are engineered to reduce bacterial growth, lower surface temperature, and extend the life of the turf. These products cost more but are worth considering for pet areas, playgrounds, and yards where heat and odor are concerns.
Crumb rubber (recycled tire material) is common on sports fields and athletic courts because it provides cushioning and impact absorption. It is not typically used in residential yards; the material can retain heat, has an odor when new, and is not ideal for pet areas or family use.
How Much Infill Artificial Grass Needs, and Why
Infill is specified in pounds per square foot, and this number matters. A typical residential turf installation calls for 12 to 16 pounds of infill per square foot, depending on the turf product, the pile height, and the intended use. Pet turf and high-traffic areas may call for 14 to 18 pounds per square foot to provide more cushioning and to help the fibres stand upright under repeated impact. Play areas and sports surfaces often require 16 to 20 pounds per square foot or more. The infill amount is not a guess; it is a specification that should be written into your contract.
Too little infill is one of the most common shortcuts taken by installers cutting corners. When infill is sparse, the turf fibres flatten and mat down, the backing is exposed to UV and degrades faster, and drainage can actually worsen because the infill is not there to help water move through the system. Conversely, overfilling does not improve performance and wastes money. The right amount, compacted and spread evenly, is what you are paying for. Before you sign a contract, ask the installer to specify the infill type and the pounds per square foot in writing. If they cannot or will not, that is a red flag.
What to Put Under Artificial Grass for Drainage
What goes under artificial grass is as important as the turf itself. The process starts with removal. If you have an existing lawn, it must be excavated and hauled away, roots and all. If there is old artificial turf, it is removed and disposed of. Once the ground is clear, the real work begins.
The first step is excavation and grading. The goal is to create a smooth, stable, and properly draining base. On most residential lots in Greenville, this means cutting out the soft topsoil and organic matter, then excavating into the clay or subgrade to a depth determined by the turf product and the site conditions (typically 3 to 4 inches). The ground is then graded with a fall, sloping away from the house, the pool, and any structures, so that water does not pond against the foundation or the deck. A weed barrier, usually a non-woven geotextile, is laid to prevent grass and weeds from growing up through the turf. This is optional in some cases but highly recommended, especially on older properties where persistent weeds are a concern.
Next comes the base layer. Decomposed granite, crushed stone, or recycled asphalt is spread and compacted in lifts (usually 2 to 3 inches at a time) using a plate compactor. Proper compaction is essential; an uncompacted base will settle and shift, creating dips and soft spots that hold water and cause odor problems. For pet areas, play spaces, and patios, a draining underlay or pad may be added on top of the compacted base. This pad cushions the surface, improves drainage, and adds comfort underfoot. On hard surfaces like concrete or balconies, turf is never glued flat to the slab; instead, a draining underlay and edge drainage are installed to allow water to escape. A sealed surface with standing water will eventually fail.
Base Prep on Greenville Soil: Excavation, Base Rock and Compaction
Greenville's soil is dominated by dense red clay over hardpan, especially on sloped lots in the foothills and in older neighborhoods. This clay drains slowly and turns to slick mud after a thunderstorm, which is exactly why base preparation cannot be skipped. A properly prepared base is the only way to ensure that water moves through and away from the turf, rather than pooling underneath and causing odor, soft spots, and accelerated backing degradation.
Base preparation begins with excavation. The depth depends on the site and the turf product, but typically 3 to 4 inches of clay and organic matter are removed and hauled away. The exposed subgrade is then graded to slope away from the house, the deck, and any pool or low-lying areas. This grading is not cosmetic; it is functional. A yard that slopes toward the house or pools water in the middle will fail, no matter what is laid on top. Once grading is complete, a free-draining base material (decomposed granite, crushed limestone, or recycled asphalt) is spread in lifts and compacted with a plate compactor. Each lift is typically 2 to 3 inches, and each is compacted firmly before the next is added. Proper compaction prevents settling, which causes dips, puddles, and the smell that comes with standing water.
If a yard has a chronic water problem (poor site drainage, a high water table, or a low spot that collects runoff from neighbors), the problem must be solved before turf is installed. This may require French drains, grading changes, or consultation with a drainage specialist. We will walk away from a project rather than install turf on a site where water control is not addressed first. A turf installation on bad drainage is a waste of money and will fail.
Artificial Grass Drainage and Underlay: Perforated vs Fully Permeable
Artificial grass is not waterproof, and it is not meant to be. Water must move through the turf and the base, or it will pool, stagnate, and cause odor and degradation. How fast water moves through the turf is measured in gallons per hour per square foot, and this rate varies by product. A high-quality residential turf typically drains at 15 to 30 gallons per hour per square foot. The backing (the underside of the turf where the fibres are anchored) may be perforated, with small holes punched through, or fully permeable, with a porous material that allows water to flow through freely. Both work well when the base underneath is also free-draining.
The real test of drainage is heavy rain and pet use. After a thunderstorm or a day of heavy watering, water should move through the turf quickly and not pool on the surface or underneath. In a pet area, drainage is even more critical because standing water traps urine and accelerates odor problems. This is why the base must be compacted properly and must slope away from the yard. Fast-draining turf laid on an uncompacted or improperly graded base will still fail. The system works only when every layer works.
For patios, balconies, and other hard surfaces, a draining underlay or pad is installed between the concrete or deck and the turf. This pad allows water to escape sideways and downward, toward the perimeter, where edge drainage (typically a channel or a sloped edge) directs it away. Turf glued flat to a sealed concrete slab, with no way for water to escape, will trap moisture, trap odor, and eventually fail. The underlay and edge drainage are not optional on hard surfaces; they are required.
Seams, Nails, Edging and Power Brooming
The seams and edges of an artificial grass installation are where quality shows. A visible seam or a lifted edge tells you that the work was rushed or done without care. A tight, invisible seam and a clean, secure edge tell you that the installer understood the job and did it right.
Seams are joined with seam tape and a polyurethane or urethane adhesive applied to both sides of the tape. The grain of the turf (the direction the fibres point) must be aligned across the seam so that light reflects evenly and the seam is not visible. The tape is pressed firmly and left to cure for the time specified by the adhesive manufacturer, usually 24 hours. If the seam is not aligned, if the adhesive is applied thin or unevenly, or if the turf is walked on before the adhesive cures, the seam will separate, water will penetrate, and the joint will fail. Nails or staples are driven around the perimeter and at intervals along seams to hold the turf in place while the adhesive cures and to prevent it from shifting in wind or under foot traffic. The spacing and the type of fastener depend on the turf and the site, but typically they are 12 to 18 inches apart and driven below the surface so they do not catch the eye.
The edge of the turf must be secured and finished. On most residential yards, this means a bender board (a flexible steel or composite edging) secured with fasteners, or a perimeter frame that holds the turf in place and creates a clean line. On patios and hard surfaces, the turf is cut tight to the edge of the paver or the deck, and the perimeter is sealed or caulked to prevent water and debris from working underneath. After the turf is laid and the adhesive has cured, the entire surface is power broomed. This combs the fibres upright, spreads the infill evenly, and gives the turf a finished, natural appearance. A yard that has not been power broomed looks flat and lifeless; one that has been looks full and alive.
What a Written Turf Spec Should Include
Before you sign a contract or write a check, you should have a written specification that names every material and every measurement. This spec is your protection and your proof that the work meets your expectations. It is also the standard by which any installer should be willing to be judged. Here is what a complete turf spec includes: the turf product name and fibre type (polyethylene, polypropylene, nylon), the face weight in ounces per square yard, the pile height in millimeters, the backing type and drainage rate in gallons per hour per square foot, the infill type and the pounds per square foot, the base depth and base material (decomposed granite, crushed stone, recycled asphalt), the compaction method and standard, whether a weed barrier is included, the seam method and adhesive type, the edge treatment and fastener type, cleanup and haul-off, and the workmanship warranty period (typically one to three years on the installation only).
A written spec is not a sales document; it is a technical document. It should be specific enough that another installer could read it and do the same work. If an installer cannot or will not provide a written spec, or if they offer only a vague description (like "premium turf on a proper base"), that is a sign that they do not take the work seriously or that they are not confident in what they are installing. Greenville Turf Installation provides a written spec for every project, fully insured and standing behind the work. For a free estimate and a detailed spec for your yard, call (864) 477-3251 or visit the pricing page to learn more about how we structure our work.